Cauliflower with Brown Butter, Sage, Pinenuts, and Parmesan
This week the Union Square Greenmarket has the most beautiful heads of cauliflower I have ever seen. They are about three times the size of regular cauliflower, bright white, firm, and heavy as bowling balls. When cooked, they are super sweet and mild.
My mom always steamed cauliflower and served it with butter, or grated cheese, or a flour-thickened cheddar cheese sauce. All delicious, though casual. (Steaming is the preferred cooking method because boiling breaks down the cauliflower's sulforaphane, a compound that is thought to prevent cancer, diabetes, and infection.) I wanted a recipe that would elevate cauliflower to the level of a holiday meal or dinner party, but still be easy enough for a week night.
This colder fall weather, and the appearance of pumpkins in every store, got me thinking of winter squash-filled raviolis with fried sage butter. What better accompaniment to tender, steamed cauliflower than butter, sage, toasted pine nuts, and lots of grated parmesan? It turns out that this is one of my favorite Girl with Spoon recipes so far. The flavors are rich and decadent, and balanced by the lightness of the steamed vegetable. The rich sage and nut flavors would go as perfectly with Thanksgiving turkey as with a grilled pork chop or fried eggs for Monday night dinner.
As a side for 4 people, you will need:
- 1 small head of cauliflower, washed and broken into florets, or about 4 cups. (I got about 12 cups out of my giant farmers market find.)
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 20 fresh sage leaves, washed and well dried
- 1/4 cup pine nuts (They are expensive and are best stored in the freezer to prevent them from going rancid.)
- 1 block of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, Pecorino Romano, or other hard, Italian-style cheese
Directions:
Place a metal steamer basket in a large saucepan with a lid. Pour in cold water up to the bottom of the steamer basket and add the cauliflower, making sure that the water does not touch the vegetable.
Cover the pan and place on high heat until the water comes to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and continue to steam. Total cooking time from cold to cooked will be 15-20 minutes. After 15 minutes, remove the lid and poke the thickest parts of the cauliflower, particularly the stems, with a sharp knife to check for tenderness. When done, the cauliflower should be cooked through (not crunchy) and give easily to the knife, but still hold its shape. Place in a serving bowl.
About ten minutes into cauliflower cooking time, heat the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan. When the butter has melted and starts to sizzle, add the sage leaves. Reduce heat to low and cook for about 5 minutes, until the sage leaves darken slightly and curl at the edges, and the butter turns a medium golden brown. Watch carefully and let the butter be your guide. As soon as the butter reaches the desired color, immediately remove from heat and add the pine nuts.
Pour the butter sauce over the hot cauliflower, including sage leaves. (Frying mellows out their flavor, and they are crunchy and aromatic.) Top with lots of freshly grated cheese and serve immediately.