Split Pea Soup
My mom is from the Midwest and of German extraction, so split pea soup is in her blood. She makes an excellent one. It is very flavorful and savory, surprisingly easy, and doesn't require many ingredients. The main trick is smoked ham hocks, which must be fresh and of good quality. They should have a lot of meat on them, smell like sweet, smoky bacon, and generally don't have any skin on them.
In New York, I've had a hard time finding hocks, which come from the lower part of the pig's leg, above the foot. Instead, I'vefound what are called "smoked pork knuckles." Though the term is a bit loose, a "knuckle" generally refers to a cross section of the lower part of the leg. These still have the skin on, are very bony, and are not very meaty. Hocks are preferable because they have much more meat, but if you find some meaty looking knuckles, you'll still have great flavor and a little meat to add to your soup. If you really want a lot of meat, you can always chop up a smoked ham steak to supplement.
You can also dispense with hocks and knuckles altogether and fry up a half pound of chopped, meaty bacon, and use chicken stock for liquid. However, I find the flavor and texture of good smoked hocks or knuckles to be truly superior, porky goodness.
For a thick, hearty split pea soup for 5-6 people, you will need:
- Water
- About 2 pounds of meaty, smoked pork knuckles or ham hocks (You'll need about 1 large ham hock or three knuckles for this recipe. It's ok if they look a bit dry - they've been smoked - but don't buy them if they are shriveled and hard as rocks. Also, be sure to smell them, whether you're buying them at a butcher shop or the meat case at your local supermarket. They should smell rich, sweet, smoky, and porky. Do not buy them if they smell rancid, a little "off," or don't have much smell at all.)
- 2 cloves garlic, finely, chopped
- 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
- 2 large carrots, peeled and, chopped
- 3-4 medium ribs of celery, chopped (I like to peel the outside of the ribs with a vegetable peeler to remove the tough strings.)
- 2 cups green, dried split peas, sorted (When recipes call for dried beans, peas, or lentils to be "sorted," it simply means to pick through them and remove any stems, discolored beans, or pebbles - yes, pebbles - that escape the sorting machines in the processing plants. There's nothing worse than taking a warm mouthful of soup and then chipping a tooth on a rock.)
- 2 Turkish bay leaves
- Small sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme, tied together with a piece of cotton kitchen twine.
- Freshly ground black pepper
- A dash of Tabasco Sauce or your favorite hot sauce (optional)
Directions:
Place the smoked hocks or knuckles in a large stock pot or dutch oven with a lid. Add enough cool water to cover the ham, approximately 2 quarts (8 cups) or a little more. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer with the lid on for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the meat is tender and the flavor of the bones has infused the water. Turn off the heat. With tongs, remove the hocks/knuckles and set them on a plate until cool enough to handle. When they are safe to touch, use your fingers to strip the edible meat away from the bones, skin, and cartilage, and break it into bite-sized chucks. Set the meat aside and discard the bones, skin, etc. You'll add the meat back into the soup right before serving.
Once you have removed the hocks/knuckles from the broth, take a look at your stock. If you see a pool of fat floating on top, carefully skim off as much as you can with a large spoon. (Generally, there won't be too much fat.) Now taste the stock. It should be flavorful and well-seasoned, as the hocks/knuckles are pre-salted and leach their seasoning into the broth. Add in 2 more cups of water, and turn the heat back on high. Add in the garlic, onions, carrots, celery, split peas, bay leaves, rosemary, and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium low, cover, and simmer for about 40 minutes to one hour, until the peas have completely broken down and melted into the broth.
You'll want to remove the lid and scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon every 10 minutes or so, to prevent solids from sticking to the bottom and scorching. You'll also want to monitor the amount of water, as the peas will absorb a lot of liquid as they cook. Add in water as needed, up to 1 cup at a time, to maintain your desired consistency. (I like my pea soup thick like porridge, but the consistency is totally up to you.)
When the peas are fully cooked, fish out the bay leaves and bundle of herbs and return the meat to the pot. Stir in freshly cracked black pepper to taste, and, if you like, a dash of Tabasco. (A small amount won't add heat, but it will help round out the flavor and provide a subtle tang.)
Serve with German pumpernickel bread and slices of Swiss cheese. A note on reheating: The soup will get thicker once it cools. Be prepared to stir in water when you reheat the leftovers.